|For the Calgary Herald|
Saturday, September 13, 2008
is everything along New Brunswick's Fundy Coast, but fortunately there
are moments in life when time is on your side. One of those moments
happened when we visited the world-famous reversing falls in St. John,
N.B. Although we hadn't taken the time to check the tidal charts, we
were fortunate to visit at high tide and see the fascinating phenomenon
of water flowing backwards up the falls.
There is no place on
earth where the difference between high and low tide is as great as it
is in the Bay of Fundy. In most places in the world, normal tide levels
are in the range of one or two metres, but in the Bay of Fundy, tides
average more than 10 metres. The highest tides can be found in Minas
Basin, where tides have been recorded at 16 metres higher than at low
tide. These tides create fascinating natural phenomenon that are found
The best way to experience Fundy's tides is via New
Brunswick's 391-kilometre Fundy Coastal Drive. You can complete the
drive in about five hours, but it takes longer to really appreciate the
remarkable geological formations, scenic coves, lighthouses, and
beaches along the way. We spent two days just experiencing the section
from Saint John through Fundy National Park.
The scenery is
constantly changing along this drive and whales and other wildlife are
abundant. What may be a peninsula at low tide becomes an island at high
tide. Certain sites only exist during high or low tide. You'll want to
see the reversing falls during high tide, but walking on the ocean
floor near the Hopewell Rocks can only be done at low tide. Other
sites, like tiny fishing harbours, are usually more attractive at high
tide. Here are a few highlights of the drive.
Fundy Coastal Drive begins or ends at St. Stephen depending upon which
direction you drive. Known affectionately as "Canada's Chocolate Town,"
Ganong Bros. Ltd. set up shop in 1873 and is now Canada's oldest
independent candy maker. There is a chocolate factory and museum and an
annual chocolate festival to enjoy in St. Stephen.
St. Andrews-By-The Sea
charming town of St. Andrews has historic sites, ocean-based activities
and attractions, shopping and fine dining. It is best known as the home
of the Fairmont Algonquin Hotel and Golf Resort. Built in 1889, this
resort is perched on a hill overlooking the town and is known to locals
as the "Castle-By-The-Sea." The golf course has received many awards
and the nearby Kingsbrae Garden, an 11-hectare horticultural garden,
has also received national acclaim.
incorporated city in Canada has much to offer visitors, including
shopping, dining, nightlife, museums, art galleries and attractions.
The most famous of these attractions is the reversing falls, a
phenomenon created when the force of the rising water in the Bay of
Fundy causes water to flow up a series of rapids in the Saint John
River against the flow of the current and seemingly against gravity.
You can enjoy observing the falls from scenic walkways and overlooks
that have been built along the edge of the river or get your adrenalin
going by experiencing a speedboat ride through the falls.
Fundy National Park
in 1948, Fundy National Park was the first national park in New
Brunswick and remains one of two national parks in the province. It
encompasses some of the last remaining wilderness in southern New
Brunswick and there are more than 120 kilometres of walking and hiking
trails that lead through the valleys and mountains of the Acadian
forest to scenic waterfalls and streams. Interpretive programs run
during the summer months and there are campgrounds, playgrounds, a
swimming pool, golf, tennis and lawn bowling in the park.
Hopewell Rocks Park
you have ever wanted to walk on the ocean floor while appreciating
fascinating rock formations, Hopewell Rocks Park is the place to go.
You can walk underneath the world-famous flowerpot-shaped rock
formations at low tide or kayak around them at high tide. The park is
open from mid-May to mid-October. For more information, visit:
Debbie Olsen is an Alberta-based freelance travel writer and mother of four.
© The Calgary Herald 2008